what's up everybody
welcome back to another episode of the Pack Leader
Mentality podcast
we've got Q&A day today and we've got some some really
really great questions I'm really excited
loving the question yeah
for sure but before we get started
I would like to take a moment of silence for a plant
behind us
I'm not good at keeping plants
you're not I'm sorry
this is what the second if not third plant has died
actually no
oh my gosh you're right
it's been three plants the first one was really small
I should have known then
couldn't even keep a small plan going
I just forget to open the blinds
so there's no sunlight that comes in here
just so you know I do open the blinds for you
I know and then I close them because I'm like
I don't want everybody looking in at me as
I think you need a fake plant
stop caring I know I just you just keep killing them
I don't want a fake plant though
I feel like a fake plant is just so fake you know
all right well
you're gonna be replacing a plant every month
I know
at the rate or I'm gonna have to do just a better job
any tips on keeping like what's the best plant
can you guys okay please
I'm asking for your help is there
please tell me what I should get for the office
that is like the easiest plant to keep alive
like I'm talking watering once a week
you know I can put that
no lights yeah
and not what's a plant for dummies
damn well you know
there's like what for dummies
you know but like I'm offended wow
the truth comes out here on the podcast no
you know what I'm talking about
like the book for dummies
and I'll like it'll be like different topics of like
how to work a laptop I know
we all know we all know now
anyway
let's get to the let's get to the questions
I know I'm sorry buddy
all right what do we got
let's jump into it yeah
I'm excited for these questions
me too so question one
I was listening to your latest podcast on Spotify
Episode 8
and I had a question regarding letting your dog know
you're serious okay
my question is
I have a shibu in a girl and she's a clever one
I have a leash on her and I'll put her on place
sometimes she will walk off
and I'll verbally ask her to get back on
if she doesn't I get up and she runs back on
other times I just get up without the initial warning
and she still makes it back onto place
before I'm able to grab the leash
what would your approach be to nip this habit
do you still follow through and correct her
even if she's on place like she's supposed
to be thank you both very much in advance
yes absolutely 100%
here's how I would do it though
I have like a three strike rule right
so if she does it like three times
then after that I would correct her for sure
because first of all Shiva inus are super
they're like
they're smart and they're like the cats of dogs
and honestly like I get it
you know they don't wanna do what they don't wanna do
so that's you know
that's a special problem that people wish she was
deal with however
I've met a lot of dogs that have a similar issue
where they play games I'd say
you know they kind of found a little loophole
where they could get off and get back on and uh
without getting a correction
because they fictum fix themselves technically
and technically they're correct however
because they're so smart
and because they are manipulating the situation
I'm gonna follow through and give them a correction
anyway and just let them know if you get off the bed
even if you get back on now
there's a correction involved
and I would do that for I would say
let's just say the next handful of corrections
and see if you get an improvement
and if you do
then you're fine if they start playing games again
then go back to correcting them
even when they fix themselves
and do it for a little bit longer
let them know that you're being serious
but it's pretty easy fix um
kind of funny cause it's it's fairly common
I've seen I've seen a lot of dogs do that even to me
cause it's cute you're like
damn you figured it out yeah
you know for sure proud of your dog for being so smart
but at the same time you're like yeah
I mean I don't know your dog personally too
but I've seen dogs that you know
they look at it like a game
so I I feel bad correcting them
if I'm being completely honest
I mean I'm not like a monster
but at the same time you know
my message to the dog is look
we're not gonna play this game all day long
where you hop off the bed and then you jump back on
and look at me like huh
you can't do anything so yeah so would you like
would you have a verbal cue coming
and following through with a leash
or would it be silent and like you see it happening
you just walk up
the dog goes back to place and you still crack like
would there be any type of verbal yeah
I think you know me really well
cause that's exactly how I would do
I wouldn't say anything
but it's not wrong if you did say no or I
and then follow through anyway
but for me
I think a part of it too is I'm just trying
to show the dog and and
I'm just trying to stick to the physical communication
in that sense you know
and I'm just gonna walk over to them so for example um
what I would do if they got got off the bed
I might not even say anything to them
to give them an indication that I'm coming
to correct them
and just walk up to them and correct them
and then put them back on
it's possible too and thanks so much for bringing this
so but it's possible that
you say no and then they run back to the bed
so it's not wrong if you still said no
and then corrected them after the fact
but I personally would actually implement
silent correction get warnings now yeah
well for the time being yeah
I wouldn't necessarily get rid of them entirely right
but in the moment as you're trying to fix this yeah
problem I wouldn't yeah for sure um
and then if I remember correctly
once you because we've you know
we've dealt with that
and once you've corrected the dog as you correct them
I've if I recall correctly
you will say place or whatever the command is for that
so yeah
place yeah I'll remind them please okay
so correction you know
put them back on the bed or if they're on the bed
in your case give them a correction and then tell them
place as a reminder yeah
but yeah great question
thank you
what we got next okay
love the content
and have applied a ton of it to the training
and the relationship
my wife and I have with our three year old
Australian Shepherd
question she's very well trained
but during times of more freedom
like secluded hikes and playing ball at a safefield
if something distracts her
like a squirrel or someone dropped food on the field
she's off on the set and the blinders are on
commands mean absolutely nothing to her in that moment
I want to build more trust
and give her a better experience with the freedom
through using the e collar
you recommend going somewhere to work with a trainer
isn't really an option where we live
we of course
want to have the right understanding of using it
properly and the right steps to take from the start
any insight would be awesome
thanks for your time
and I hope to hear more on the next
question and answer podcast
cool yes
so the dog needs training and when I say that
I mean that's kind of obvious
but I mean specifically distraction training
so
it sounds like everything is good up until that point
but what I would recommend is work with a long line
and recreate those scenarios
so that you can get good at leash handling
and then apply the e collar when
I work with my clients in the e collar
I always let them know that the e
collar is an extension of the leash
if your leash handling isn't good
and you're not making a point
to communicate effectively
through the leash
then you really have no business using an e collar
because you still need to guide and direct your dog
after you give them a correction with an e collar
so what I would do is put them on a long line
start with some easy repetitions of calling them to you
and then rewarding them
then letting them get distracted
and potentially even planting some food in the field
uh where you know it is
and allow them to go to it
and then call them away from it
and if they don't respond
give them a correction with the leash
a quick pop of the leash
a snap of the leash and then remind them
come and go over this a lot with them
I would have a long line
dragging on the dog for a little while
and as I allow the dog to go further out
than the long line is long
so maybe the long line is 30 feet
let's say in there uh
35 feet ahead of me right
so there's five feet in between me and the long line
if I call the dog you know
I have just one step or two steps
maybe to reach that long line
and give a correction
and I'll slowly start to build out
and that's how I'll build trust
I want to make sure that the dog is responding to me
and then from there I'll add the e collar and again
it's just important
to make sure that you are able to communicate
with the leash well
and then you add the e color to the
okay so for hikes
how would you handle that
same thing have a long line on the dog
obviously we can't recreate
like when a squirrel
or some animals gonna come into their line of sight
but I would be prepared for it
I would then that's part of it too again
even in that location
I would want the dog to be used to responding to me
because of the handling that I'm providing them
in addition to the rewards too right
you should
certainly be rewarding the dog for coming back to you
but um I think a correction is slightly more important
with what you're dealing with
because you can reward the dog all day
but if they don't understand that
there's a consequence for not coming back
you know that's the part that's missing
so but again long line
super important
and you just have to pay attention to the dog
you know I've taken lots of dogs on hikes
and I work them through the recall
and it's just a lot of repetition
before I start letting go of the leash
like I I call them back a lot
recall becomes a part of our everyday training routine
every time we're out we're practicing recall
because I want to basically drill it into their mind
that I can call them back at any time
and this is the response that I'm looking for
so there's really no getting around the leash work
in my opinion you know
that's kind of the foundation because if yeah for
for many reasons I think and I think ethically too
it's a good idea to get used to handling leash
before you just start giving your dog
an e collar correction
yeah
and just a little important note to add there since
you know I've been working on recall with Charlie yeah
uh to remember
cause you you
when I first started
you're always like back up attention on the leash
back up back up
so back up when you have that tension on the leash
um helps a lot
haha
that's yeah
now that was good a little
alright so she's been with me for a while haha
alright question No. 3
alright
thank you for sharing your expertise
two questions
how long of a long leash do you recommend for training
it really depends it really depends
because I've used a long line on different dogs
for different reasons
um couple reasons why I would recommend a long line
No. 1 for practicing the recall
um No. 2 for practicing like a finish heel basically
so if your dog is away from you
and you want them to come to heel
or just come to you really uh
another reason why I would use a long line is
for a nervous dog
that I'm actually trying to help build confidence
and allow them to move away from me
and encourage them to move away from me
or doing behavior modification
and another reason
I would use a long line is just to let a dog
kind of chill and just have more freedom
and be able to explore the environment
a little bit more you know
and to play with them to build trust during play
taking dogs to parks I'll have them on a long line
so I can throw a ball and start to again
build trust and really
establish the foundation of our relationship
through play if I'm using a 6 foot leash
will call it a typical training leash
I'll use that to teach basic obedience and going back
I'll use a long line for more advanced obedience
like creating distance with sit
stay down stay recall obviously
so and then
I also use a long line for teaching an off leash heel
for example because I let the long line drag
so that's kind of like
the first step towards the off leash part
and then so going back to the 6 foot leash
I would use that for basic obedience
controlling a new dog around the house
a dog that doesn't really understand anything yet
maybe a 6 to 8 foot leash in the house and
and then once a dog becomes a little bit more advanced
around the house I'll put them on a tab leash
so if they're responding well
but need reminders here and there uh
they're not like
running away from me or anything like that
trying to avoid going into a crate for example
then I'll use a tab leash
and a tab leash is something that you guys can create
at home if you have a spare leash
you can basically measure out
from the snap of the leash
or if you're using a slip leash
from where it connects to your dog's neck basically
and measure out whatever you're comfortable with
4 inches 5
6 7
8 maybe 10 or 12 inches if you want it that long
and then put a little knot in it at that point
and then cut the remainder of the leash off
and then that's called a tab leash
you can think of it like keeping tabs on your dog
and that's something that I would use
mainly for around the house
and then also for more off leash work
once the dog is a little bit more polished
and they're doing well off leash
I'll have that on them just in case
I need to give them a correction or reminder
or some guidance here and there um
but those are pretty much like
the three main sizes that I'll use
and for those reasons
so great question yeah
what's the next part
the next part is our dog will not jump on us
not consistently as we would like when we come home
if we walk in and have treats on us to give
but as soon as we don't it all falls apart
do you have strategies for decreasing reinforcement
away from food rewards first
every time
or do you need to use food rewards more consistently
for longer first
before trying to fade since response still needs work
man couple couple things
so I wanna just sort of reiterate the question
the dog is still jumping on you when you come home
and you they don't jump on you at all
when you walk in the door with food in your hand
so do I have any tips for decreasing
using food first every time that you walk in the door
uh yeah so
there's a couple things
I think that need to be mentioned with this
first of all
if I were in your house and you're telling me this
I would ask you
is there any way that you can have a dog put away
when you're not home because that's
I think that that's a really great place to start
personally more of a foundational approach
you know what I'm saying
kind of like letting them express that
like excitement would just having complete structure
when you come home
so the dog is in the crate
then even coming out of the crate
is gonna be a process of calmness
you know and then the greeting
so you have much more control over that greeting
you can even put a leash on them
before they even come out of the crate right
that would be my best recommendation
to be honest with you
but let's say that that's not an option
the next thing I would say
is there any way that you can put a leash
or tab leash on the dog this way when they jump on you
you can grab the leash
and as far as the minimizing food rewards
it sounds like your dog has figured out that
they can work the system like they've trained you
basically and if you don't have food
they jump on you so in this example
what you're dealing with the food reward
isn't really helping them understand that
they're being rewarded for not jumping
at all it's possible that they've jumped on you
and then maybe you've given it to them unintentionally
not knowing what you were creating
yeah exactly um
but I would in all honesty
I would still use food rewards here and there
when you come home but I would implement a correction
I just think a correction is missing from the process
because it just sounds like they figured it out
you know yeah
and the way that I would correct him
just depends on what what you have available to you
you know wow
if you're using a leash I would say slip leash
grab the collar or their leash portion
and then apply pressure and as soon as they resist
let go you're just trying to create discomfort
and let them know that whenever they jump
that's what they're gonna get
they're not gonna get any responses from you uh
if you had let's say like a prong collar
I would give a quick pop or snap of the leash
if I didn't have anything on the dog
then for me
something that I do is I stick one or two fingers in
what's this part of our neck called like right in
right in the center of the collarbone basically
and I just push in there
and I've done that with some dogs that are really
really jumpy
it's not my preferred way to communicate with dogs
but I'll do that
if there's nothing else available to me
and I just kind of press in and I
and I do so to the point where they start to back up
and once they back up off me
then I relax um but yeah
your dog needs a consequence
and I'm not opposed to you continuing to use food
but when you come home if they don't jump
then they get a piece of food and
but I would also make a point to come home
and not have any food and then give them a correction
and then also
if you don't have food and they don't jump
then you can pet them and say hello to them
so you can use your attention as a reward
food is great I love using food
but I also think that this is one of those situations
and and just a side note
like I've recommended this to clients
I'll say to them hey
if your dog is jumping on you when you come to the door
have some food outside when you come home
stick that hand out with food
keep them down
you can pet them and then let them eat some of the food
then the way that I have them fade away is
mix up how often you have food
continue to stick that hand out
like you have food
and put their attention to your hand
and then you can pet them
and I've usually I mean
I've never really had anyone contact me
and ask me for further details
because I usually cover like
how to correct them if they choose to go that route
so no one's ever had an issue from that
from my understanding
but that's something else that you could potentially do
too is use of like fake it out basically
but honestly I mean
you just need a correction
I also and I'm not saying that you
know this family is doing this
but I also wonder if there's any type of like
verbal communication that's happening
when people are coming home and their dogs are jumping
you know are you excited
obviously you're excited to see your dog
you know so is there a lot of like
hi buddy we're home
yeah you know
like sweet talking and hyping them up a little bit more
um that's a great point
reinforcing like yeah
like I I I'm curious is that happening
and if so you know
obviously stop stop
come home stop quiet
we're not acknowledging the dog
yeah for the first few minutes until they're
they've calmed down
and then you can approach them and give them love yeah
I mean
I know it's hard to do because the second we come home
I wanna give love to our dogs
but that would not haha
I mean I do to Brooklyn she's calm
she's the calmest of water with Charlie
not to Charlie yeah
no
I see like I can't do that with Charlie if I came home
oh yeah no
Charlie doesn't get any attention
but she's a G though she's quiet
she is but puppy who
what is she like four and a half months
she's quiet pretty good
but also when we put her in the crate
there's no like excited or sad departures
and when we come home there's no like excitement
it's quiet
and I actually don't even immediately acknowledge her
I don't take her out I'll wait
like five minutes before I take her out of the crate
just to show her that just because I'm home
it doesn't necessarily mean like it's go time
yeah or even longer
one last tip to you can ignore the dog completely
and see if that helps but honestly
I think that that's really only effective to
or for puppies with puppies uh
once dogs have been reinforced
the ignoring jumping can just create more jumping
depending on the dog
so I'm not opposed to you trying that
that is an option but if that doesn't work again
I'm just gonna go to a correction so
next question
I have a golden retriever who loves sticks
balls has a lot of dry for those things
and I use that for his training
but when a dog is walking near or around him
he growls and shows his teeth
with the ball in his mouth
what can I do to stop that
that's a great question
um
here's what I would do I would see if I can
if you're paying attention to the environment
and you can have the ball or stick first
before your dog does
see if when they notice the other dog
if you can Mark and reward them
before they have a chance to show their teeth
if it's only happening
when they have that item in their mouth
see if you can touch them to kind of
get their attention and be a little playful
as soon as they see another dog
before they start to show their teeth
or even in the middle of it
kind of think of it as a redirect
and your messages like hey
focus on me don't worry about them
generally with that
I would really lean on the side of keeping things light
and playful
I'm not opposed to potentially correcting that later on
but I'll be honest with you uh
I would my question really is why is the dog doing that
you know
and for whatever who knows maybe
maybe it's a form of resource guarding from a distance
to see another dog and they're like hey
stay away from my my ball
my stick you know
it's hard to say
I don't know it's
you know that's something that would
definitely want to learn more from you
if I was able to speak to you
so but generally
even if that was the case
I would still wanna deliver the same message to the dog
that is like hey
everything's cool focus on me
and for me
growling is a line of communication that a dog uses
to let us know
or others know that they don't like a situation
and that they're not comfortable
um and so I
I respect that you know
I'm not necessarily a fan of correcting
growling and showing teeth
at least not strong corrections
you know I've
even if I see Brooklyn do it like as an example
she's done that
dogs get closer and she show the teeth and I go shh
Brooklyn shh you know
and I kind of shush her that's the correction you know
I'm just trying to keep things light
for example or I might redirect her
you know
or just say your name get a look at me and go yes
good girl because I'm just again saying hey
don't worry about them
pay attention to me it's more about in my opinion
guiding them through that
and how they should be handling it
rather than like punishing them again
I'm not opposed to that
if we've done those necessary steps
but that's how I would handle that and also
I'd if I was able to
I'd like to know a lot more about that situation
and like
what plays out and how you typically handle it
because if you're
if you've been really strong with your corrections
there could be an association that's been made
for whatever reason
where you've corrected them because of XYZ
and now whenever they see a dog
they assume that something bad is gonna happen
so they tense up and that's an expression of them
well
that actually leads to this person second question
and that is
my retriever has been growling when getting corrected
and I've been doing it within the correct timing
regardless of what he does
he runs to his crate because he knows he is in trouble
not sure what to do maybe you can answer that
yeah not to accuse you of any wrongdoing
but it sounds based on that
that you're even over correcting your dog
maybe you're just a little too strong
or maybe
there's not a lot of clarity in the correction
meaning like your dog doesn't fully understand why
or another reason is threatening
like gestures or body language from you
so an example of that would be yes
you corrected your dog on time
but you continue to raise your voice at them and like
point at them and again
have like
some sort of a threatening demeanor about yourself
perceived by your dog right
they're perceiving that as threatening
the way that I would handle that is
I would calmly handle the dog
I would correct them and just make them go
let's say get back on their bed
or whatever it is that you're asking them to do
uh calmly
if they're running into their crate
I would close the crate door
and not allow them to run into the crate
if they went into the crate
I wouldn't correct them for that
so maybe for example you told them to lay down
and they thought they were in trouble
and they ran into their crate
I wouldn't correct them for that
I know that it's wrong technically right
but the reason why I wouldn't correct them is
because going into the crate is usually a good thing
if you've trained it right
it's supposed to be a command essentially
so I would just calmly tell them hey
come on come out here
and then very calmly
bring them over to where I wanted them to lay down
in this example and then put them in a down
I think if I had to guess
I would say your handling might be a little too strong
for your dog and I would tone it back a little bit
you know uh
that's that's gonna be my first take
based on my experiences
with the way that dogs interact with their owners
based on the information I have
that's what it sounds like I would ease up
it's okay to correct them
but tone it down you know
so just a regular tone ah
ah or no
and then calmly follow through
and make them do what it is that you want um
and then yeah but ready
yeah next we got two questions left okay
next question well
we rephrase that
we have quite a few questions
next question is a few questions
and then we have one more question rolled into one
I have a few questions Ellie is 17 months old
she had had some training at Petsmart
I wasn't totally satisfied with the methods they used
using some of your methods
I can have her stay in her crate
until I free to release her
I've always used a harness with her since the day
I got her so you can imagine
or excuse me so you can guess
the one problem I have is pulling on the leash
I'm getting a slip lead from Amazon
my question is how would you suggest
the transition from a harness to slip lead
I'm afraid she may try to pull out of the slip lead
and then when using the slippery
does it matter how it's worn
as far as what side of the dog the lead is looped
compared to which side of the dog is walked on
so
the way that I would transition from harness
to a slip lead is
take the harness off and then put the slip lead on
but make sure that it's on correctly
meaning take the little slide or tab
and secure it at the bottom
that's closest to your dog's neck
and make sure the collar portion is fitted
at the top of the neck
that little tab prevents the slippery from opening
while the dog is wearing it
if you got a good brand
then that piece will be secure on the leash
if you got an off brand or a cheap brand
then that piece if it's not already
it's gonna be very loose
and slide very easily around the leash
and your leash will open up
so the transition to in terms of pressure would be
for me I would walk the dog through pressure
for example I would take food
I would lure them
and when they start coming into my hand
then I apply leash pressure with the slip leash
and I would put that on repeat
let's say 10 times
then I would start to I would transition to uh
pulling out the dog with a little pressure
and then when they come into it
giving them food
and then I would transition to pulling the leash
creating pressure backing up more
and then reaching into my pocket or food bag
technically you should be wearing one
and then rewarding the dog like that
in terms of like teaching them how to walk
that is a whole other list of things to do
but as far as like
just getting your dog used to the pressure
around their neck
and understanding to come into pressure
and to yield to pressure that's how I would do it
I would use a food lure then leash pressure
leash pressure
then the food reward immediately then leash pressure
a little bit of distance walking into leash pressure
and then reaching into your bag and feeding the dog
and you would do that inside the house right
before you take it out yeah
exactly before you take that practice outside
yep and then yes far as the side yes
it does matter
so if your dog is gonna walk on the right side of you
when you're facing your dog
and you have this leash about to put on them
it would be in the shape of the letter Q
a lowercase q okay when you put it on your dog
if they're gonna walk on the left side of you
it should be shaped like the letter P
so the leash is gonna go down
and then
the loop for the collar is gonna look like a letter P
for you guys watching the opposite right
and then
the other way you can tell if it's incorrectly is
if your dog is on your right side
this the leash should come around your dog's neck
and exit to you so it should come to you
versus like
exiting out from the little loop of the leaf
and then wrapping around it
and then same thing on the left side
if you have your dog on the left
that leash come around the dog's neck
and then out of the hole to you
you know exactly what I'm talking about
if you stand up on either side of them
which deletion come out to you from that hole
and that's important
because if you have a reverse in your blood pressure
it doesn't immediately relax a leash yeah
yeah and what's the last one
the second part of that question is
when teaching a new command
should I focus on one command until it's 100%
before moving on to the next one
unnecessarily focus on the command until there
I would say 80% is fine you know
they might be perfect at it
but focus on one at a time
so for example
I'm gonna teach a new dog five new man's
I can do that basically in a couple of days
but I would just train them separately
so I wouldn't I'll just do sit sit sit
you know let's say in the morning
then I work on recall and late morning
then I do down afternoon very good example
and I can go back to doing sit recall down
so you can do that
you can train multiple your commands in
let's say one day
but you just want to train them separately
so don't have to be really good
and
just need to be very clear about what you're training
I would not really on train sitting down together
because you're gonna get mismatched
you know um
and when that goes for anything to please sit down
recall heal I would just train each one individually
uh and then you can start to mix them up
when they're about 80% each
that's a good way to go
yeah that that's a very
that was a very helpful tip for me too nice
alright last question
we have two almost 3 year old goldens
how difficult
or is it feasible to train both at the same time
separating them is hard
especially our Luca you can tell
yes so
it's very difficult
and pretty much impossible to train two
completely out of control
untrained dogs at the same time
but what if they are in separate control
like well
it's not saying that necessarily like out of control
it's just they're trying to train them at the same time
well based on that Luca freaks out
I would say they're pretty out of control
no offense to Luca
out of control meaning like
they don't listen to anything that's
that's out of control
it's not it's not slander
it's not offensive I'm just saying
you know for someone maybe for sure
all right
I'll start the question over on behalf of Layla
no saying out of control okay
it's very hard almost impossible
to train two dogs who don't know anything
at the same time as one person
in your particular situation with Luca freaking out
here's what I would recommend
find a place in your house where you can tether him
have him on a leash and tether him
and then interact with him
or have someone with you interacting with him
to kind of like
keep him settled um
generally I recommend teaching the dogs place first
because it's an easy stationary behavior
whether not required to stay in any specific position
like sit or down
you're able to let them just lay on their bed
and you can interact with them
so you can intermittently go back to them
and reward them for staying on their bed
while you're training the other dog uh
right in front of them and that's what I would do
I would actually get him
used to seeing you train the other dog
but have him there but again
you need to tell her him or potentially even crate him
so he's there
watching as you're interacting with the other dog
while you intermittently go back
and again reward him for being chill
actually did this with Brooklyn and Logan
when I first brought them home
when I first got home from from training of school
and uh I remember the first time I ever trained a dog
in front of Brooklyn and Logan
at home they were both freaking out
not to mention the time that I trained another dog
trained his dog named Oogie in school
with Brooklyn in front of me
cause Layla came to visit and Brooklyn lost her mind
I didn't even know what to do at the time
I just stopped training the dog and I was like
let's put her away because I was so embarrassed
and I've never seen her act like that
she did not know what to do with her life but so yeah
so I get it if that's the case
if he's just freaking out
because you're interacting with the other dog
and not him
what I would do is give him like a stuffed Kong
give him a bone give him something to engage with
while you're training the other dog in front of him
as he's tethered
that unfortunately is pretty much your best option
I wouldn't necessarily recommend like correcting
him if he was still upset about that
but rather working him through it
and I wouldn't be opposed to giving a correction
later on but up front
I feel like it would not really fair to stress him out
like that if
if their relationship has been allowed to become
what it is
to the point where they're unable to be separated
I I feel like we should have a little bit of you know
Grace
and leniency and understanding with what we've created
you know and then work them through that
but wouldn't be opposed to saying okay
knock it off that's enough later on in that equation
but not up front but yeah
definitely tether them and get the dog used to
get them both used to seeing you train
to interact with the
with one while the other one is not doing anything
well since
it seems like Luca is the one
who is having a harder time with this
would you maybe recommend teaching him place first
yes and getting him really proficient in that
and then once he's Learned place
then you're giving him Kong you know
a chew to something a chew bone
and then he's occupied
and then you're training the other dog yeah
and your other dog is back to Luca to reward him
and then your other dog is
would basically be a distraction for Luca
among other distractions that you train him through
just to say like hey
look while you're on your bed
I'm gonna sit on the couch open the refrigerator door
you know open your favorite treat bag
I'm going to open the back door
I'm also gonna train your sibling while you watch
that's just a part of the distraction training
when that's how you can treat it
but yeah great points
definitely switch up and train Luca first
to get him acclimated to being on place
and then the other dog is just a distraction
and then you can swamp him out
and definitely have your hand look at me
I'm a trainer yeah kidding
um and definitely have them on leash
both of them that way if Luca breaks his place
if you choose to go that route
you can put him back on place
really appreciate you guys questions
I hope I've been able to provide insight
to all of you who had a question
and to those of you who are watching
and listening to all these answers um
don't forget if you guys do have questions
please email us at info at lead your pack LV
com
and don't forget to what podcast in the subject field
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and also if you're looking to be a leader for your dog
don't forget we have a pack leadership course
and I cover it lots and less
awesome stuff like how to teach your dog place
how to deal with jumping garbage rating
counter surfing teaching your dog boundaries
and how to just be a better pet owner
and build a solid relationship with your dog
so check it out
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and really looking forward to our upcoming episodes
we'll see you guys then questions from you guys
peace bye
that warning is basically a warning to them
question 2 long time social media follower
yeah it does
if they are excited yet let them learn to chill
